In Defense of Food

1. Eat food, not nutrients: The perils of nutritionism

Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.

Nutritionism's flaws: This ideology reduces food to its nutrient components, ignoring the complexities of whole foods and traditional diets. It has led to the proliferation of processed foods fortified with isolated nutrients, often at the expense of overall nutritional quality.

Consequences of nutritionism:

• Confusion about what to eat
• Increased consumption of processed foods
• Neglect of traditional food wisdom
• Oversimplification of complex nutritional relationships

Solution: Focus on whole, minimally processed foods that your great-grandmother would recognize. Avoid products with health claims or long lists of unfamiliar ingredients.

2. The Western diet and its consequences: A historical perspective

The human animal is adapted to, and apparently can thrive on, an extraordinary range of different diets, but the Western diet, however you define it, does not seem to be one of them.

Rise of Western diseases: The adoption of the Western diet, characterized by processed foods, refined grains, and added sugars, has led to a dramatic increase in chronic diseases such as obesity, diabetes, and heart disease.

Historical evidence:

• Studies of traditional populations show low rates of chronic diseases
• Introduction of Western foods correlates with increased health problems
• Reverting to traditional diets can rapidly improve health markers

Implications: The Western diet's negative health impacts are not inevitable and can be reversed by returning to more traditional ways of eating.

3. From whole foods to refined: The industrialization of eating

There is something in us that loves a refined carbohydrate, and that something is the human brain.

Changes in food processing:

• Shift from whole grains to refined flours
• Increase in added sugars and refined oils
• Loss of nutrients and fiber in processed foods

Consequences:

• Rapid absorption of glucose, leading to insulin spikes
• Increased calorie consumption without satiety
• Nutritional deficiencies despite calorie surplus

Historical context: The industrialization of food production prioritized shelf life, convenience, and profit over nutritional quality, fundamentally altering our relationship with food.

4. The myth of nutritional science: Limitations and contradictions

Leave aside for now the virtues, if any, of a low-meat and/or low-fat diet, questions to which I will return, and focus for a moment on language.

Problems with nutrition research:

• Reductionist approach focusing on individual nutrients
• Difficulty in isolating variables in complex diets
• Reliance on flawed self-reporting methods
• Influence of industry funding on research outcomes

Contradictory findings: Nutritional studies often produce conflicting results, leading to confusion and frequent changes in dietary recommendations.

Holistic approach: Instead of fixating on individual nutrients, focus on overall dietary patterns and traditional food cultures that have stood the test of time.

5. Quality over quantity: Pay more, eat less

There's no escaping the fact that better food—whether measured by taste or nutritional quality (which often correspond)—costs more, usually because it has been grown with more care and less intensively.

Benefits of paying more for food:

• Higher quality, more nutritious ingredients
• Support for sustainable farming practices
• Encouragement to eat mindfully and in moderation

Strategies for eating less:

• Use smaller plates and portions
• Eat slowly and mindfully
• Focus on quality and savor each bite

Cultural perspective: Compare American eating habits with those of other cultures, such as the French, who spend more on food but eat less and enjoy it more.

6. Return to traditional food cultures and cooking

To adopt some of these habits would do at least as much for our health and happiness as eaters.

Benefits of traditional food cultures:

• Time-tested wisdom about balanced diets
• Emphasis on social aspects of eating
• Moderation and mindful consumption

Importance of cooking:

• Control over ingredients and preparation methods
• Connection to food sources and processes
• Development of food knowledge and skills

Practical steps:

• Learn and adapt recipes from various cultures
• Cook meals from scratch more often
• Share meals with family and friends

7. Eat mostly plants, especially leaves

Scientists may disagree about what's so good about eating plants—Is it the antioxidants in them? The fiber? The omega-3 fatty acids?—but they do agree that plants are probably really good for you, and certainly can't hurt.

Benefits of plant-based diets:

• Rich in fiber, vitamins, minerals, and phytochemicals
• Lower risk of chronic diseases
• Environmental sustainability

Emphasis on leaves:

• Higher nutrient density compared to seeds
• Rich in omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants
• Lower calorie density, promoting satiety

Practical tips:

• Fill half your plate with vegetables at each meal
• Explore a variety of plant foods and preparation methods
• Incorporate leafy greens into smoothies, salads, and cooked dishes

8. The importance of omega-3s and the dangers of seed oils

Thus without even realizing what we were doing, we dramatically altered the ratio of these two essential fats in our diet and our bodies, with the result that the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 in the typical American today stands at more than 10 to 1.

Omega-3 benefits:

• Reduced inflammation
• Improved brain and heart health
• Better insulin sensitivity

Problems with excessive omega-6:

• Pro-inflammatory effects
• Displacement of omega-3s in cell membranes
• Potential link to chronic diseases

Dietary recommendations:

• Increase consumption of omega-3 rich foods (fatty fish, flaxseeds, walnuts)
• Reduce intake of processed foods and seed oils high in omega-6
• Aim for a more balanced omega-6 to omega-3 ratio (ideally closer to 1:1)

9. Escape the Western diet: Shop the peripheries and farmers' markets

You won't find any high-fructose corn syrup at the farmers' market.

Benefits of shopping the periphery:

• Focus on whole, unprocessed foods
• Avoidance of heavily processed, nutrient-poor items
• Greater variety of fresh produce

Advantages of farmers' markets:

• Direct connection with food producers
• Access to seasonal, locally grown produce
• Support for sustainable agriculture

Practical tips:

• Plan meals around fresh, whole ingredients
• Explore new fruits and vegetables each season
• Engage with farmers to learn about food production

10. The pleasure principle: Enjoy your food and eat slowly

Eating with the fullest pleasure—pleasure, that is, that does not depend on ignorance—is perhaps the profoundest enactment of our connection with the world.

Benefits of mindful eating:

• Enhanced enjoyment of meals
• Better digestion and nutrient absorption
• Natural portion control

Cultural perspectives:

• French approach to meal times and portion sizes
• Mediterranean emphasis on shared, leisurely meals

Practical strategies:

• Set aside dedicated time for meals
• Eat without distractions (TV, phones)
• Chew thoroughly and savor each bite
• Engage in conversation during shared meals

11. You are what you eat eats too: The significance of animal diets

Even animals that do well on grain, such as chickens and pigs, are much healthier when they have access to green plants, and so, it turns out, are their meat and eggs.

Impact of animal diets on food quality:

• Grass-fed animals produce meat higher in omega-3s and other nutrients
• Pasture-raised chickens lay eggs with more vitamins and healthier fats
• Industrial animal feeds can introduce undesirable compounds into animal products

Choosing animal products:

• Look for grass-fed beef and dairy
• Opt for pasture-raised eggs and poultry
• Consider the source and production methods of animal foods

Broader implications: The health of the entire food chain, from soil to plate, affects the nutritional quality of our food.

12. Cultivate your food: The benefits of gardening and cooking

To take part in the intricate and endlessly interesting processes of providing for our sustenance is the surest way to escape the culture of fast food and the values implicit in it.

Benefits of gardening:

• Connection to food sources and seasons
• Access to fresh, nutrient-dense produce
• Physical activity and stress reduction

Advantages of home cooking:

• Control over ingredients and preparation methods
• Development of food knowledge and skills
• Opportunity for social connection through shared meals

Practical steps:

• Start a small herb garden or container vegetables
• Learn basic cooking techniques and recipes
• Involve family members in meal planning and preparation
• Experiment with preserving seasonal produce

Last updated: January 22, 2025